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| Source: realmenbarbershop.com |
I don't want to say the whole "I used to be like most people" thing, because I think it's extremely obnoxious and condescending to people who just might not know any better about any given topic. However, when it comes to shaving, most people use either an electric razor, a disposable razor, or one of those heavily marketed mach-whatever blades that promise to clean your house and brew you a cup of coffee in the morning on top of giving you the "closest shave possible". But I think there are better and cheaper alternatives to shaving that you might want to explore before continuing to use any of the above mentioned items.
If you're one of those guys who takes pride in never shaving and growing a rainforest on your face, then this post is obviously not for you. I totally appreciate and respect the fact that beards and moustaches look really good on a lot of guys, but for those of us who believe their own personal facial aesthetic is most fully optimized by a clean-shaven look, read on!
In this blog post, I'd like to get into the different tools of the trade when it comes to cost-effective and efficient shaving. While this post might have some value for the ladies, the focus will be mostly on male facial shaving. I'm also going to advocate turning to traditional forms of shaving, as I feel I've been "awakened" to the glory that is old-fashioned shaving with a double-edged (DE) safety razor and/or a straight razor due to their effectiveness, cost efficiency, and "intimacy" in the experience.
Things to Consider Before Shaving
Before you start shaving, here are some things you should always be congizant about:
1) ANYTHING that touches your face needs to be properly cleaned
- This goes for your hands, the blades, and ESPECIALLY the towels you will use. Bacteria grow on surfaces over short periods of time, and reusing items that are not thoroughly cleaned invite infection and acne / breakouts to the party....which you don't want. Be sure that your face / body is thoroughly washed as well. Use a new towel every couple of days, wash your hands before shaving, and use rubbing alcohol to clean the blade before every shave. When drying your face, NEVER rub your face. Blot dry. If you rub, you can potentially spread around bacteria that can lead to infection and breakouts.
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| Source: walmartimages.com |
2) Make sure the hair you are going to shave is soft / heated with hot water
- This is why it's optimal to shave after coming out of the shower. Hair that has been soaked in warm / hot water is softened and not as stubborn when you run a blade through it. The comparison of shaving after soaking in hot water and completely dry is akin to cutting a warm stick of butter compared to cutting a cold stick of butter. You're asking for a lot of difficulty when you shave dry and without any prep-work to the hair follicles. Also, be sure to heat the blade with warm water before the shave and in between each series of shave passes.
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| Source:web-images.chacha.com |
3) Change your blades often
- This is one reason why using the Gillette Mach series or any comparable company's "advanced" razors are not efficient. But I'll get to those later. It is important to replace your blades often to ward off infection, and to have a sharpened blade that easily does the job as opposed to a dulled-out overused blade that will give you tons of problems while shaving. If a blade falls on the floor or in the sink, CHANGE IT IMMEDIATELY. It's not worth the risk of infection.
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| Source: charlesnicholls.co.uk |
Types of Razors and their Uses
Disposable Razors
I know what you're thinking. Cheap, doesn't get the job done, and will do more harm than good.. But hold on a second. I think that disposable razors definitely have their place in one aspect of shaving. If for no other reason, they are great for one thing: shaving areas other than the face.
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| Source: pics2.ds-static.com |
The face is a different beast when it comes to using products or taking a blade to it for some reason. It is more delicate and sensitive than the skin on other parts of the body (i.e. torso, arms, legs, back, etc.). So you have more freedom to not take as much time worrying about the damage you'll do (but please do still be careful). The skin around the body is more resilient against abuse, and therefore won't take the delicate protocol that I'll explain once I get into facial shaving.
Disposable razors are great in that they are very cost-effective and get the job done when you want to say, shave your chest to bring out the definition in your upper body, or simply want to clean up what's growing wildly on your body. Since those body parts cover a larger portion than your face, the razors are worn out a lot quicker than if you were to use it for facial shaving. That's why it's good to have a razor you can throw away nonchalantly and buy in mass quantity, if you need to shave larger areas often.
The same rules as previously stated still apply here though. Do not use the same blade often, and make sure it's fresh / clean. Run under hot water to heat the blade up a bit. For bodily shaving, a raking motion is ok....but is definitely not a technique I would advise for facial shaving. If you CAN go in solid straight lines that don't back track though, that is definitely preferred.
Summary: Great for body shaving. Cheap and cost-effective. Able to be replaced easily.
Multiple-Blade "Advanced" Razors
Oh man, don't even get me started.
For the longest time I used these razors because they were and still are marketed so well in trying to make people believe it's the only game in town. The only way for a great shave. That you'd have to be STUPID not to use these razors. I realize now however, that I was literally just throwing my money into the trash can.
Guys, 5 blades aren't better than 3 blades. 3 blades aren't better than 1 blade. IN FACT, increasing the amount of blades increases the chances of ruining your face when you shave with these. The fact that the refill cartridges cost so much means that a lot of people will let the same blade sit and grow a bacterial utopia, ready to invade the face the next time its owner thinks they're a little more hairy than they'd like....not to mention the continual use that will lead to a dulled blade. There is literally no upside to using these unless you like wasting money, and do not respect your face at all. They are a scam. Highway robbery without a gun.
It kind of reminds me of a funny MADtv skit from way back in the day:
Summary: Do not use. Better alternatives exist.
Safety Razors and Straight Razors
The best option in my opinion for facial shaving. You spend a very reasonable amount of money to get started, and they almost immediately pays for themselves.
Straight razors differ from safety razors in that straight razors are essentially a handle with a fold-out bar that holds a whole razor blade for you to shave with. Other straight razors actually have the blade permanently attached to them that requires a leather "strop" that must be used to sharpen the blade before each use.
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| A straight razor |
Source: boker.de
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| A safety razor |
Source: customshaving.com
These razors really turn shaving into an amazing hobby. You really feel a sense of ownership in using and maintaining your safety razor. You can choose the razor brand of your choice, depending on which one works best for you in terms of the level of sharpness you are looking for and your skin's sensitivity. Replacing razors cost you literally pennies, and investing $10 into high quality blades can last you for an entire year. This gives you quality sharpness for a close shave, and the efficiency and hygiene that comes with being able to replace your blades often.
Straight razors are for the more advanced shaver. I would recommend starting out with a safety razor before going all in on a straight razor.
Summary: My preferred method of shaving. Cost-effective, efficient, and gives an unmatched level of shave.
Other Equipment
Badger Hair Brushes
If you're going to go all in on the old-fashioned style of shaving, I highly suggest you spend the money in getting a badger hair brush. Similar brushes come in nylon (I think), as well as boar's hair and other material, but badger hair is good in that it can hold the right amount of moisture to load your creams and soaps with, while also being firm enough to exfoliate and bring out the hairs on your face to be ready to shave. They are also soft enough as to not damage your face. I can't really speak to a particular brand (I've been using Escali), but a quick google / amazon / etc search will point you in the right direction. Consider also getting a stand that holds your safety razor (if you go that route) and badger brush so that it doesn't lay in a place where it can get contaminated and is able to hang dry.
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| Source: tweezerman.com |
Shaving Soaps / Shaving Creams
Here is where you can really start to make the shaving experience your own. Shaving soaps and creams come in a variety of scents, and you can mix and match to suit your preference during the experience. Shaving Soaps and creams are what you load your badger brush with to create a lather to apply to your face to help the razorblade glade across your face as you shave.
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| Source: cdn1.bigcommerce.com |
I can't really speak to the EXACT difference between shaving soaps and shaving creams, but soaps tend to be more slippery, clear, and may be cheaper than creams. Creams on the other hand, are more lathery, don't glide as well as soaps, and can be more expensive. The two may also be fortified with different things (such as aloe vera) to add beneficial ingredients to your face as you shave.
Personally, I load my badger brush with both a shaving soap AND a shaving cream. It's amazing. The brand I would recommend for shaving soaps is Colonel Conk, while I would Recommend Taylor of Old Bond Street for creams.
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| Source: cdn.classicshaving.com |
Cleansers, Toners, Exfoliators, and Moisturizers
Let's take it to an even greater extreme shall we?
All three aspects of the shave are important (the pre-shave, the shave, and the post-shave). This is definitely true for the post-shave. This is the cherry on top of the process you just put your face / body through. It's also extremely important. You just ran a blade across your face and potentially nicked / cut yourself in the process. It's time to not only make your face feel even more like 100 bucks, but to also prevent infection and adverse effects that may come with what you just did.
I suggest using toners, exfoliators, and moisturizers for your face. This doesn't go just for shaving, and I will write a post in the future discussing them in further depth. In the mean time, here's a rundown of what each does and the products I recommend:
Cleansers:
As stated, it's important to make sure your face is clean before proceeding to shave it. Do not use a cleanser that completely strips away the oil in your face, and be cognizant of what works for your face. When your body is stripped of too much oil, it reacts by producing more oil that can clog pores and cause acne.
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| Source: skinfo.com |
This is why many people opt for a sensitive skin cleanser. Personally, I don't even use a cleanser that has alcohol at all, and recommend using the foaming facial cleanser by Cerave.
Toners:
Toners clean your face. They remove dirt, dead skin, makeup, etc. They also give your face a nice firming quality, for a healthier look. They are also gentler than many facial soaps and cleansers. For shaving and every day use, I recommend witch-hazel toner by Thayers.
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| Source: images.iherb.com |
Exfoliators:
Exfoliators remove dead dry skin and expose healither younger cells to give your face a healthy young glow. Kind of like a toner, with more of an emphasis on removing dead skin. Exfoliators can be physical (sugar / mineral scrubs), or chemical. Chemical exfoliators with beta hydroxy acid (BHA) can help fight razor bumps that some people get after shaving. I recommend Paula's Choice exfoliator, but cheaper alternatives are also available. When shaving, it's probably best to use a chemical exfoliator, since you're more concerned with hygiene and not so much smooth skin.
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| Sources: wasmachtheli.com |
Moisturizers:
Used to lock in moisture on your face and body (moisturizers do not add moisture to your skin). This is helpful in that dry skin actually promotes acne development. As stated, when you strip away the oils of your skin via alcohols and other products that you put on your face, your body reacts to the dryness by producing more oil for your skin. This in turn may cause pores to be clogged by this oil production and in turn cause acne to develop.
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| Source: walmartimages.com |
There are some great moisturizers out there. For daily use, I recommend using a moisturizer that also has sunblock (with a good SPF...around 30 or so), as UV radiation can be a big culperate in facial aging. Neutrogena's "Visibly Even" moisturizer is a great product. For nightime use, you don't need UV protection, so you don't need a moisturizer with sunblock. For the night, I recommend Cerave PM facial moisturizer.
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| Source: pics1.ds-static.com |
How to Shave
Alright, now let's get into the shave! Here are the steps you need to take for the best shave of your life:
1) Loading the brush
- Make sure your face has been properly soaked with warm water. Blot dry your face with a clean towel, leaving your face not wet, but damp / moist.
- Wet your badger brush with warm water and "flick" the excess water into your sink. If you want, you can also rub some of the water across your face for more softening of the hair follicles.
- Open your shave soap container if you opted for shave soap. Swirl the badger hair brush inside clockwise and counter-clockwise until the soap starts to lather and "load" onto the brush.
- If you are using / also using shave cream, take a pea-sized amount (a q-tip end / fingertip amount) and put it on top of your badger brush.
- Find a clean bowl / holder and put a few dabs of water inside. DO NOT PUT TOO MUCH WATER. Swirl until a lather starts to generate. If there is no lather and the soap and / or cream is too thick, add a little bit of water. If you added too much water, load your brush with some more soap or cream.
- DO NOT....UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, FILL YOUR SINK WITH WATER AND DIP YOUR TOOLS IN THERE. A lot of people do this when shaving, but it is another great way to spread bacteria all over your face since since sinks are often times used to spit toothpaste into, clean items, etc. Run all tools under fresh water from the faucet.
Youtube Channel: geofatboy
2) Lathering your face
- After you have swirled your badger brush into a nice lather, bring it up to your face and rub in a swirling motion to get all of the hairs / bring them to the surface. Go across the cheeks, under the nose and lip, and neck.
Youtube User: PallMallBarbers
3) Shaving
- There are different names for the directions you choose to shave in. Take a close look at your hairs to see what direction they grow in. The facial hair on the face is often times growing downward, while the hair at the bottom of the neckline is often times growing upward. Shaving in the direction of the hair growth is called "with the grain", while shaving in the opposite direction is called "against the grain", and shaving perpendicular to any hair growth is called "across the grain".
- You DO NOT have to apply a lot of force. If you try to control the blade, it WILL punish you for it, and you will pay for it..........with blood. Simply let the weight of the razor glide through the hairs as you shave each time. If you are using a safety razor, tilt / angle the razor so that you feel the razor blade properly angled to catch your hair for optimal shaving.
- Start by shaving WITH the grain. Angle your face so that whichever part of your face you are shaving is nice and taught to allow proper gliding and shaving of the razor and the hair follicles. Use nice, straight, long motions, and never go over what you've just shaved in a single set of passes. Do 1-3 passes before running the blade under water to better expose the blade again for more passes. With the grain might be different for different people depending on how your hair grows. You don't necessarily need to follow the same order in terms of direction of passes either (I just personally recommened with, against, and across the grain ordering), so find what works best for you.
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| Source: photobucket.com |
- Lather again with the same badger brush you loaded, and repeat the process with against the grain and across the grain passes. Note: When doing across the grain passes, you might be best served only doing it for the part of your face ABOVE the neckline. That has been my experience anyway. I go twice with the grain for the neckline.
- Once you've finished doing your passes each way, wash your face first with warm water and a clean towel to get rid of all of the excess lather residue. Then, wash your face again with cool / cold water. Pat dry
- Once you have patted your face dry, use cotton balls to apply toner, exfoliator, and moisturizer.....in that order.
- Enjoy your new fresh-feeling face!!
Youtube User: Geofatboy
Shaving can be an important aspect of grooming and maximizing your aesthetic. It can be a very personal experience that will leave you feeling nice and fresh. I highly recommend that if you haven't already invested in the straight razor / safety razor / old-fashioned shaving method for your face, that you give it a try today. You won't be sorry. Also, if you haven't tried using disposable razors to maximize the aesthetic of other parts of your body, you could give that a go as well to stay well groomed. Give it a try!
-Jtrain
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*Have a question about natural bodybuilding / fitness / nutrition / stress? Need some advice? Email me at jtrainfitness@gmail.com and I will answer it on this blog! Be sure to enter your email to receive alerts for when the next blog post has come out, and be sure to tell your friends about this blog! Follow me on twitter @jtrainfitness and tell your friends to do the same!*
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